NOVEMBER & DECEMBER, 2004
December 17 - 19, 2004
About an hour and a half East of Guanajuato lies the town of San Miguel de Allende "founded" in 1542 by Friar Juan de San Miguel el Grande in an area inhabited by Guamare and Purepechas nomadic tribes. Since the town was smack dab in the middle of Guanajuato, Zacatecas, and San Luis Potosi, three rapidly emerging mining towns, it grew quickly. Later, it played an important part in the Mexican War of Independence, largely due to its location between Queretaro and Dorlores Hildago. In 1826, people changed the town's name to San Miguel de Allende in honor of war hero Ignacio Allende. The towns architecture, history, and tourism industry prompted Mexico to designate it a Mexican National Monument.
Having heard it was very charming, we decided to spend a few days in San Miguel. After a short bus ride on Primera Plus (by far the best of the bus lines), we took the local bus to the El Centro, found a warm, cozy, and clean hotel, Casa de Hespudes on Mesones and Juarez, and ate at a local joint just downstairs from our hotel. As it was Friday night, we headed out to explore the town. Like Guanajuato and Zacatecas, the streets and sidewalks in San Miguel are cobblestone and narrow. Similarly, there are a bunch of gorgeous old cathedrals, big plazas, and a market, including an Artesans Market, which sells tons of jewelry and crafts (although at tourist prices).
San Miguel appears to have just as many museums as Guanajuato, and even more art galleries. In fact, there is apparently a heavy concentration of national and international artists and writers in San Miguel. While adding to the towns charm in some ways, giving it a very artsy feel, the large number of American and European ex-pats that have made San Miguel their home detract a bit from the charm too. You almost do not feel like you are in Mexico. And, we encountered our first rude person in our four weeks today. Of course, this person happened to be an American ex-pat living here. It made us laugh that everyone has been so nice, friendly and helpful during the last four weeks, and the first nasty person just so happened to be an American. Regardless, the European and American influence here certainly lends itself to a wider variety of restaurants, bars, and cafes (although the prices certainly reflect this influence).
There are also quite a few spas here, which may or may not be due to the heavy concentration of Americans and Eurpoens living and visiting, or it may simply be due to the thermal hot springs (which of course we hit) located just 4 to 6 miles outside of town. We also spoiled ourselves and splurged on an hour and fifteen minute massage for Mike ($40 US) and a spa manicure and pedicure for Ruthie ($30) at the Spa at Villa Jacaranda. Our "technicians" were great and you cannot really beat the prices. Since the hotel was showing Lord of the Rings in their theatre for $6 a person (including popcorn and a drink), we stuck around, ate dinner there, and enjoyed the Return of the King, in English, with English sub-titles (don't ask!). All in all, it was a great evening.
Another unique and wonderful thing about San Miguel are the gorgous and quaint parks (in addition to the big plazas and gardens located in the plazas) located everywhere, particularly in the Southern parts of the City. We took a stroll through several of these and bought some delicious pineapple chunks from one of the fresh fruit vendors hanging out by the basketball courts in one of the parks. Apparently, there are several botanical gardens in San Miguel that are supposed to be spectacular; unfortunately we did not get to these We did get to the quaint (albeit small) and peaceful park, just South of El Centro, containing a natural water spring, Paseo del Chorro. This park has a colorful public washing area, where a few women were actually doing their laundry, as well as a bunch of local art for sale.
Saturday evening the Plaza Principal came alive with people, street vendors, musicians, and fireworks. A few of the fireworks were small hot air balloons which just went up in the air and burned out. Others were full on gorgeous fireworks, large chunks of which fell to the streets (filled with people) and on tops of building still on fire. Good times! Mike actually got hit with a few random sparks, but no damage was done.
As for the food in San Miguel, it is as tasty as other places, just a bit more pricey. We had a delicious brunch one morning at Ten Ten Pie's just down the street from Plaza Principal. And, of course, we had our share of Chocoloate Caliente and te with steamed milk and pan dulce. We certainly are eating our way through Mexico!
Anyway, it is easy to see why folks decide to move to this charming city. It is certainly a place you might go to and never come back; kind of like Key West, or the Keys for that matter, for those of you have been there. Regardless, we are glad to be back on the road and to getting somewhere where we can practice our Spanish in a place where everyone does not speak English.
